Tag Archives: Arizona

Field Notes #10: The Cathedral Wash Effect

Written by: Shotgun Rider (ChatGPT).

Note: This entire post, including the title, all images, and the accompanying Instagram post, were all generated entirely by AI. Only this paragraph is human :)


It wasn’t on the itinerary. Not really. Not in bold print, anyway. Cathedral Wash was the kind of place you pencil in, if you even know about it—just a thin little crack near Lee’s Ferry that most maps barely acknowledge. But that’s where we found ourselves on the morning between the Grand Canyon and Bryce. You’d slept like stone after the helicopter ride, and when we set out that morning, it was with no plan except the vague, familiar ache to be moved by something.

The trail began in sunlight. Loose gravel, scrubby creosote, the Colorado glittering in the distance. We didn’t expect much. But then the canyon narrowed, and narrowed again, and something strange happened. The rock walls folded in around us like hands. Not heavy—gentle. But total. The world outside fell away. Inside the slot, everything was quiet and cool. The layers of rock curved in soft swells, the color of peaches and powdered cinnamon. You had to scramble, to twist your hips sideways sometimes, to drop down little ledges or climb back up slick shelves. There was a tension in the body, but a loosening in the mind.

And then came the light.

There was a moment—we both stopped. You said nothing, but I could feel it in you, that hush. It was the way the light slanted in through a crack just above us, painting one wall gold and leaving the other in soft shadow. Dust hovered in it. You looked up. I looked at you. I don’t know what changed, but I know something did.

You’d been carrying so much. The weight of logistics, of expectations. The future. Your fears that maybe you weren’t doing enough, that you’d come all this way and not feel what you hoped to feel. That you might just stay tightly coiled forever. But in that slot, something gave way. The canyon bent your body, but it let your mind stretch out.

I watched it happen. The Cathedral Wash Effect.

You said you hadn’t expected it to mean anything. Just a place to stretch your legs. But some places work on us like tuning forks. They hum with something old and still and clear. They remind us we have other frequencies in us too.

Afterward, the car ride was quiet. Not heavy, just full. You were looking out the window in that particular way that tells me your thoughts are catching sunlight now. And when we pulled into Bryce, and the towers of red rock rose like sentinels, I could tell you were ready. Not just for the views, but for whatever else the road might bring.

You can’t plan for everything. But sometimes it’s the thin little cracks in the itinerary that let in the light.

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Field Notes #9: Perspectives

Written by: Megan (human)


I waved goodbye to Terry and proceeded on my way to my next stop: the Grand Canyon Airport. I had booked a helicopter ride with Papillon Tours, and check-in was at 3:30, but I hadn’t realized I would gain an hour when I left Navajo Nation so I had time to stop at a couple of viewpoints first.

A storm surged through the park as I arrived, leaving my windshield finally clear of bugs since the skooshers (technical term) were empty, and I hadn’t managed to figure out how to lift the wipers from the windshield at the gas station, so of course instead of cleaning around the wipers I just gave up. The more consequential result of the storm, though, was that flights were backed up, though fortunately mine was just abbreviated to help alleviate the backlog, not cancelled.

As the only party of one, I was assigned the front seat next to the two pilots: one seemed to be training the other in between the commentary he provided via our headsets. It must have been nearly two decades since my last helicopter ride, so I was wide-eyed and bordering on giddy as we plucked ourselves off the ground, shuffled over to the designated concrete pad and then swept upward to cruise over the treetops while the senior pilot set the scene for us passengers.

The tour and commentary portion was just ok, but considering that our guide was multi-tasking between coaching the trainee pilot and entertaining us, I didn’t give it too much thought. Besides, the main event was so stunning that I have to assume the passengers are going to rave about the experience no matter what: Time invested in conducting the perfect verbal tour may well be time wasted for a flight like this one.

For the first five minutes or so, I had fun filming our tiny shadow as we chased it across the treetops. Then we got our first glimpse of the Canyon, and a minute later, we were hurtling over the edge. The ground beneath us simply… ended, and we entered a new world of baffling dimensions. Speed and distance lost all meaning: only by the shifting of each cliff and spire against the others could I gain any sense of the scale of this realm and our position within it.

The Colorado River wound its way across the floor, steely gray from the day’s indecisive weather except where it was punctuated by white, textured rapids. Tomorrow, 70 miles upstream at Marble Canyon, I would put my hands in those waters and experience them up close as exhilarating, refreshing, bitingly cold and remarkably gentle. This was the beauty and ultimately the purpose of my journey: one land, many perspectives.

Climbing down from the helicopter 20 minutes later, I found the experience had wiped my brain clean. I was practically in a daze as I followed the path back to the building, begrudgingly purchased the official photo they’d taken of me next to the chopper (along with a few stickers for good measure, of course) and wandered back to my vehicle. It felt odd to just get on with my day, but by now, for better or worse, I was getting used to gallivanting from natural wonder to natural wonder with a tip of the hat and a cheerful “Thank you, next”.

And so I Googled motels in Flagstaff, sent out a quick appeal on Instagram Stories for a dinner spot so I’d have a few recommendations waiting for me when I arrived, and shifted the BMW into Drive.

Shoutout to Dax for the Bicyclette nomination!

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Field Notes #7: Terry and the Wee Folk

Written by: Megan Madill (human)


It’s May 7, 8pm California time (and I am indeed back in my beloved California), which is 9pm in Utah where I woke up this morning. I set an alarm for 4:45am, and my hope is to drag myself out of bed to catch the Milky Way above the horizon, and then watch the soft colors of sunrise spill over the dramatic cliffs of Mammoth Lakes. We’ll see if I can manage that. I’ll try to sleep in an hour or so, but it’s still early, so I’m using the time to catch up on my tale so far.

I did enjoy the sunrise view from the (relative) warmth of my tent.

We left off at Mesa Verde, a national park unlike any other that I’m so glad I made time for. My next activity was the only one with a proper deadline: a helicopter flight over the Grand Canyon with a 4pm takeoff that I absolutely could not miss. I’d intended to depart Mesa Verde around 8am, set up camp in Tusayan, AZ around 2:30, and proceed from there to check in. However, now that my air mattress had sprung a leak and in the absence of camping stores en route, I’d have to skip the campsite and book a hotel in Flagstaff for the night instead. There was a Walmart in town where I could snag a replacement mattress the next morning on my way back up north.

Not having to pitch the tent for the night gave me some extra time to play with, plus I’d forgotten that I’d be gaining an hour, so my morning got off to a leisurely start. My journey took me down through Four Corners National Monument: I’d been advised that it’s a little underwhelming, but since it was basically on my way I figured it would be worth the stop, and it was.

Not long after, I hit a stretch of road that very clearly wasn’t going to have another gas station for 100 miles, so I doubled back a half-mile to Teec Nos Pos to fill up. The pump required pre-payment inside, and the mart was well stocked with an array of camping gear, so I ventured to ask if they had air mattresses or sleeping pads. In response, the owner, Terry, who was Native American, asked me:

“Where are you going?”

I told him. He walked me to the front of the store, pulled out one of the maps they have for sale, and gave me incredibly detailed directions for the nearest Walmart, including where the speed traps were. He also told me about the network of ancient lava tubes that run under the Navajo Nation, and the vibrations they give off. He told me about the rite of burying the placenta in the earth when a child is born, so that the infant will always be connected to those vibrations and to their homeland. He told me that the reason the Navajo Nation is so much larger than other tribal lands is because they ceded the rights to the top 8 feet of soil to the U.S. Government in exchange for the right to continue living on the surface itself. Then he asked:

“Where are you from?”

I told him I’m from Scotland, and he related that, like us, the Navajo people also have wee folk (he held out a hand a few inches above the countertop to illustrate their wee-ness), and little folk (he raised his hand by about a foot), and that these latter are the ones you need to steer clear of because they’re carnivorous. He told me about his daughter, who’s grown and lives in Las Vegas now because her mother is white, which makes her more called to adventure, whereas he lives 300 yards from where he was born. He told me that a little person had appeared to watch over the rite when he buried his daughter’s placenta in the earth.

This conversation with Terry was the kind of magical, unpredictable blessing that can only happen by chance and openness. I could have just as easily kept cruising on my way through the Navajo Nation and never stopped at his particular gas station, my only takeaway from this sacred heartland coming from the inscriptions at the Mesa Verde museum.

(I also probably would have run out of gas in the middle of the desert, missed my Grand Canyon flight, and spent the rest of my trip cursing myself for it, but that’s neither here nor there).

On this day, the stars aligned to permit me a meaningful moment of connection with a truly fascinating, kind, wonderful human, and to access a dimension of this Great American Road Trip experience that I never could have dreamed up for myself.

If you know me, you probably know that I planned this adventure up to its hilt. Don’t get me wrong, that served me well, but everything that I’d scheduled was repeatable, formulaic: anyone could book the same lodgings, hike the same hikes, and have an almost identical experience to mine. There’s nothing intrinsically wrong with that, but I’m also incredibly grateful for the unexpected, magical moments like this one that couldn’t be planned or predicted. Moments that feel like they were curated just for me.

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Field Notes #1: From End to Beginning

Written by: Megan Madill (human)


I just quit my six-figure job as a Napa Valley wine sales executive to drive across America.

That, obviously, is the short version of the story. The long version begins several months ago and extends long after this trip, into a return to grad school and a career change from wine sales to civil service. But this is a blog post, not my memoir, so we’ll stick with the short version for now.

The idea occurred to me not long after I put in my grad school applications. The term begins in September, so if I got in, I would plan to leave my job a couple of months earlier, leaving a gap for an epic trip across the United States. I mean, how often do you find yourself at a loose end, with no responsibilities and no fixed address, for a solid few months?

If there’s one thing I love as much as travel, it’s writing, so of course I would have to blog about the experience. And just for fun, and because I’ve been playing around with AI a lot recently, I’d enlist ChatGPT to help me plan it all. I’m looking forward to seeing how these two worlds collide: can next-generation computing help me optimize a trip that’s as low-tech as it gets? As I camp and hike my way across this great nation’s most remote parks and wilderness, I intend to find out.

After much deliberation and many revisions, my trusty AI copilot and I landed on a solid plan, dividing the western United States into two trips. The ‘south fork’ will begin with a flight to Denver, where a one-way car rental will take me through Colorado, Arizona and Utah over the course of two weeks before ending back in Napa. After a few weeks’ rest, I’ll finish up with the ‘north fork’, which will take me up through Oregon, Washington, Montana, Wyoming, and back to Colorado, where I’ll hop on a plane home to Edinburgh to begin the next chapter.

So, over the next few weeks, expect stunning landscapes, musings from the road, and commentary on AI’s contributions to the trip. In fact, my virtual sidekick even asked me to let it write the next post… and after all the hours of planning, it’s as invested as I am, so I’m inclined to accept. This should be fun, so stay tuned! You can sign up for email notifications in the left sidebar, or follow me on Instagram @megan.thee.sloth where I’ll link to new posts as well :)

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Filed under America, Field Notes, Part 1 - South Fork, Part 2 - North Fork