Tag Archives: life

Field Notes #15: The Wild Wild (Pacific North) West

Written by: Megan Madill (human).

On that note, did you know you can max out a conversation with ChatGPT?? Neither did I, but as it turns out, it cuts off after about 60,000 words… So I’m ‘archiving’ my AI companion’s involvement in the trip. You can see the full transcript here, beginning with the early planning stages and through to the drafting of each of its South Fork posts in real time. For the North Fork, I’ll be writing all the posts myself.


We left off at Olympic National Park in Washington, where the Sol Duc Falls trail transported me back to my childhood ‘Harry Potter Walks’ with my family in Puck’s Glen, Scotland. But, much as I enjoyed that particular trek, for me Olympic’s best feature was its sheer variety. Later that same day, whose color palette had so far exuded nothing but green, I found myself trekking along a blustery coast draped instead in every shade of blue and gray known to man.

Rialto Beach in Olympic National Park

I’ve marveled at the Pacific Ocean from many different vantage points over the years: from the white sand shores of La Jolla, from the fog-shrouded redwoods of Marin, from the parks and greenways of Vancouver and the tidewater glaciers of Alaska. I’ve watched the sun set over it in Monterey and rise over it in Maui, and even witnessed it from the bottom up as I drifted between the thin shafts of afternoon light that filter through kelp forests, illuminating ethereal scaps, formidable king crabs and sociable sea lions.

I thought I had seen everything my beloved Pacific had to show me. I was wrong.

10/10 satisfying pebbles

The gloomy and haunting shores of the Pacific Northwest brought home the reason I’d committed to this trip in the first place, the purpose that compelled me forward even when I was tired or sore or lonely or fed up (or all of the above). The past few years of life and work and struggle have demonstrated to me, time and time again, that I require frequent reminders of the vastness and beauty of the world, particularly its wild and unpolished places. It’s right there in the briefing I gave to my copilot when this whole adventure was nothing more than a fragile dream:

I want to be left speechless by nature as often and intensely as possible.

And by the end of Day 3, I was already well on my way.

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Field Notes #13: Leaving Napa

Written by: Megan Madill (human)


After the adventures of Colorado, Arizona and Utah, I went home to Napa for 3 weeks to finish wrapping up my life there. My original idea had been to do one giant trip, in an RV, after my lease ended on my apartment, but that quickly proved to be too ambitious. I suspect that’s for the best: I like solitude, but that might have been a bit too much of it even for me.

So instead, I broke it into a 2-week south fork, to take place while I still had my apartment, and a 3-week north fork for after my lease was up, so that at least I wasn’t paying exorbitant Napa rent on top of my trip expenses. And in the 3 weeks that divided the two trips, I had my work cut out for me. Before leaving my job in wine club sales, I had agreed to be on panels at two industry conferences during this period, and there were friends to bid farewell to and an interminable array of objects—so many objects!—that I had accrued in the preceding 9 years that would need to be dealt with.

Loved working with these ladies on our panel on balancing tradition and innovation in the wine industry.

I made lists. I sorted. I shuffled. I organized a garage sale, and then a free giveaway to move the last few things that didn’t find a home in the garage sale. I timed the monthly car subscription I’d be using for my road trip so that I could fit in a couple of hauling trips, to the local dump and various local charity shops, since I had pre-emptively ditched my car lease months prior to spare myself the hassle of transporting or selling a motor vehicle on top of everything else. I crammed nearly 200lb worth of my most treasured possessions into four moving boxes to ship via USPS, then emptied and repacked them all so I could fill in the detailed customs forms which required descriptions, weights and values of every last article of clothing. I filled my trusty blue totes with clothes, food, and camping gear, and piled the SUV to the roof. I Swiffed and Swiffed the floors, scrubbed the appliances, wiped every surface, and just like that, the place was empty. Nothing to do but turn off the lights and lock up.

I allowed myself a brief moment to look back at the red front door with the stained glass rose for the last time, and forced myself to play back the ‘greatest hits’ moments of the time I spent there: to process what it meant to leave this place and shed a tear or two before sweeping on with the next item on the itinerary. This kind of processing can’t be postponed: it has to happen there, on the stoop, or the moment is gone and the loss gets trapped with nowhere to go.

Goodbye, house.

Still, I couldn’t linger long, since I was late to pick up my friend for our group trip out to Fort Bragg, Mendocino, which, being 3 hours north, would also serve as the first stop on my north fork. We had an incredible weekend to ourselves, eating good food, playing lawn games, reading, watching movies, engaging in spirited debates over several glasses of wine, and generally enjoying being human in each other’s presence. I will miss these wonderful folks dearly.

Life can’t get much better than this…

Two by two, the other residents of our weekend getaway drifted away, back to their homes and lives and jobs, until all the tearful goodbyes had been said and I was left alone to lock up once more. I think it’s a good thing that I didn’t have to let go all at once, but in pieces: first my job, then most of my friends, then my home, then the rest of my friends, then California, and soon, the USA itself. To have handed in the keys to my apartment and headed straight for SFO might have ripped off the Band-Aid, but it also would have felt anti-climactic somehow. And me, I like to go out with a bang!

So here I am, on the last leg of my farewell tour, this victory lap around the country I’ve called home for so long—or half of it, at least. Five weeks could never do justice to the whole nation: as it is, I’m barely scratching the surface of each destination, wishing I had just one more day everywhere I go. But that’s the thing about time, I suppose. No matter what, there’s simply never quite enough of it: all we can do is use what we have as best we can. And I intend to.

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Filed under America, Field Notes, Part 1 - South Fork, Part 2 - North Fork

Field Notes #9: Perspectives

Written by: Megan (human)


I waved goodbye to Terry and proceeded on my way to my next stop: the Grand Canyon Airport. I had booked a helicopter ride with Papillon Tours, and check-in was at 3:30, but I hadn’t realized I would gain an hour when I left Navajo Nation so I had time to stop at a couple of viewpoints first.

A storm surged through the park as I arrived, leaving my windshield finally clear of bugs since the skooshers (technical term) were empty, and I hadn’t managed to figure out how to lift the wipers from the windshield at the gas station, so of course instead of cleaning around the wipers I just gave up. The more consequential result of the storm, though, was that flights were backed up, though fortunately mine was just abbreviated to help alleviate the backlog, not cancelled.

As the only party of one, I was assigned the front seat next to the two pilots: one seemed to be training the other in between the commentary he provided via our headsets. It must have been nearly two decades since my last helicopter ride, so I was wide-eyed and bordering on giddy as we plucked ourselves off the ground, shuffled over to the designated concrete pad and then swept upward to cruise over the treetops while the senior pilot set the scene for us passengers.

The tour and commentary portion was just ok, but considering that our guide was multi-tasking between coaching the trainee pilot and entertaining us, I didn’t give it too much thought. Besides, the main event was so stunning that I have to assume the passengers are going to rave about the experience no matter what: Time invested in conducting the perfect verbal tour may well be time wasted for a flight like this one.

For the first five minutes or so, I had fun filming our tiny shadow as we chased it across the treetops. Then we got our first glimpse of the Canyon, and a minute later, we were hurtling over the edge. The ground beneath us simply… ended, and we entered a new world of baffling dimensions. Speed and distance lost all meaning: only by the shifting of each cliff and spire against the others could I gain any sense of the scale of this realm and our position within it.

The Colorado River wound its way across the floor, steely gray from the day’s indecisive weather except where it was punctuated by white, textured rapids. Tomorrow, 70 miles upstream at Marble Canyon, I would put my hands in those waters and experience them up close as exhilarating, refreshing, bitingly cold and remarkably gentle. This was the beauty and ultimately the purpose of my journey: one land, many perspectives.

Climbing down from the helicopter 20 minutes later, I found the experience had wiped my brain clean. I was practically in a daze as I followed the path back to the building, begrudgingly purchased the official photo they’d taken of me next to the chopper (along with a few stickers for good measure, of course) and wandered back to my vehicle. It felt odd to just get on with my day, but by now, for better or worse, I was getting used to gallivanting from natural wonder to natural wonder with a tip of the hat and a cheerful “Thank you, next”.

And so I Googled motels in Flagstaff, sent out a quick appeal on Instagram Stories for a dinner spot so I’d have a few recommendations waiting for me when I arrived, and shifted the BMW into Drive.

Shoutout to Dax for the Bicyclette nomination!

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Episode Eighty Three

Today is the last day of my 20s. I’ve been going around joking that I’m not sorry to be seeing the back of them, but I think I owe my twenties an apology for that.

My twenties were filled with more pain and confusion than it ever occurred to me to fear. In fact, the overarching emotion that comes to mind for much of the past decade is panic. But I also never could have imagined the beauty, adventure, and fulfillment that these years would bring.

I’ve always lamented that we only get one life to live, but I have to acknowledge that I’ve lived more than my fair share. I’ve been a student, a translator and a wine saleswoman, and damn good ones at that. I’ve been married, I’ve been hopelessly in love, and I’ve been very, very single. I’ve been poor, and I’ve been… well, slightly less poor.

I’ve explored the outer limitations of my own self: my bravery, my perseverance, my moral standards. I’ve discovered where I draw those lines only by crossing them. I’ve become more familiar with my own tendencies, and learned to coexist with them. I’ve worked on my relationship with Future Megan, doing little favours for her like putting a hot water bottle in her bed so it’s warm when she gets in, and saving a little of each paycheck for her next adventure.

I’ve endured heartbreak, despair, wildfires, a pandemic, and the bureaucracy of the American immigration system. I’ve made a home for myself in one of the least hospitable places on the planet to scruffy, skint little Scottish lassies. I’ve worked hard, learned new skills, built friendships, and generally, somehow, convinced quite a lot of people that I’m worth having around.

At the time, I experienced my twenties as not much more than a whirl of a million questions. Everything that happened, every decision I made, was in some way an attempt to answer one of these questions. Am I smart enough? Am I confident enough? Am I humble enough? Am I attractive enough? Am I strong enough? Am I nice enough? Am I interesting enough?

Am I different enough?

But now that they are over, I see how it all progressed to bring me closer to the feeling of self-acceptance that a person is supposed to happen upon at some point during their fourth decade on this earth. The results are in, and in spite of a few inevitable stumbling blocks along the way, a few unintended or regrettable detours, I didn’t do too badly overall. I think the girl who wrote Episode Forty Six almost exactly ten years ago today would be pretty stoked to become the person writing Episode Eighty Three today.

And there’s one of those questions that I can definitely answer for her, because I know it was instrumental in how she pictured her future 30-year-old self: Do I wear enough purple?

The answer is yes.

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Episode Eighty-Two – Old and New

Hello!

I’d like to tell you a little story. A little while ago, I was filling in a very demanding job application that required a list of every job I had ever had and of every trip abroad I had ever taken. As you can imagine, this was a complete pain: I had to trawl through emails from years ago, searching for flight confirmations and clues from years-old conversations to pin down the exact date I started X job or moved to Y address.

In doing this, I realised that the emails that I sent to my long-distance partner during that time served as a sort of running commentary on my life; not just on the milestones but on the little things too. Everything was there: my good days, my bad days, my self-depracating humour, my crippling weaknesses, my hopes and dreams for a phantom future I would never, it turns out, live out. It’s comforting to have this log of experiences to look back on, so I can trace what happened when, which decisions I made and why, and how I got to be where I am today.

Since the relationship ended, I have kept no such record of my life. For a whole year, all of the people who were closest to me actually lived close to me – just along the hall or at most a bus ride away. So we would just talk about things in person, and I never had to write it down. But now things have changed again. I’ve moved to Madrid, most of my friends are far away again, and in the meantime I somehow seem to have got involved with another American, who is now back in America. And so today, when I came home from an exciting day of discovering my new home city, my first instinct was to write him an email and tell him all about it. I guess old habits die hard.

But then I stopped and thought for a minute. Why was I relying on him to be the reader of this micro-auto-biography? After all, my incredibly exciting and inspiring day essentially amounted to eating a sandwich and taking a book out from the library. And while I’m confident I could have composed an 1800-word email about it all, was I really doing it because I knew he would be dying to hear my news? Of course not: I was doing it for the simple cathartic release of writing it all down. I was doing it for me. And then I remembered that I have a blog called A Trail of Breadcrumbs whose explicit purpose is to document all of these little things, allowing me to express myself without wittering on to my long-suffering American boyfriends about my mediocre days-in-the-life, and to have a written reminder of what happened when and how and why, so I can read back over it later and trace how my life got to where it is today.

So instead of an email, I’m writing a blog post. A blog post that, of course, didn’t turn out to be about the delicious roast beef sandwich I bought from a food truck at a pop-up street fair, nor about the peaceful library right in the middle of the stunning Parque del Retiro where I obtained my Madrid public library card and borrowed a book by Javier Marías just to force me to go back again. Instead, it turned out to be about everything that’s happened since I stopped writing in here, and everything that’s happened since I started writing in here, and everything I hope might happen if I start writing in here again. Because five years ago, a lost little 17-year-old girl at the start of an exciting new adventure had a premonition: that she would always be a lost little girl, looking for reasons and connections and explanations about her life, and that she would need a blog like this to help her remember where she came from and guide where she was going. And she was right.

Seriously, though, it was a damn good sandwich.

Seriously, though, it was a damn good sandwich.

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Episode Seventy Four – On Writing

Well, that was an intense semester.

Aside from my written and spoken language requirements, I’ve had a literature module each for French and Spanish, and they have been fantastic. Especially the Spanish one. The Spanish Newspaper Column By Writers was perfect for a blogger, as the assessed coursework was not an essay but rather two of our own newspaper columns, our handling of which was supposed to be indicative of our understanding of the column as a literary genre; being a blogger helped me to compose these assignments, and composing the assignments was useful for my blogging, too. Not just the assignments, in fact, but the course in general: I learned a great deal from the module, not only in terms of Spanish literature but much more generally as well.  Continue reading

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Episode Sixty Eight – S’more from Megan, Finally!

Hello again, faithful and long-suffering readers.

Goodness gracious, I’ve been busy since leaving Strasbourg behind! As I mentioned, I’ve been training for this new job at Sandemans New Europe tours. They offer free tours (as well as paid ones) in lots of cities all over the continent, and when I got in touch and said I wanted to be a tips-only tour guide, they responded by offering me a stable job with a good hourly wage instead :) Continue reading

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Saturday Spotlight Twenty – Things I’ll Miss

Well, well, well. Look what we have here: the last day of my year abroad. Weird, huh? Especially for those of you who have been following my journey since before I left home for Costa Rica last July. I’m feeling a little sad to be leaving the semester (and the year) behind – but also eager to get started on the next stage of my life: my final year of university and a great job! (At least, I’m confident that it’ll be great, though I haven’t started yet).

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Episode Sixty Two – I Don’t Speak Luxembourgish

Did you know Luxembourgish is a real language? I guess it says a lot about my blundering approach to travel that I didn’t even research what language they speak in our weekend destination; but aside from the fact that the official language is not French as I had assumed, doesn’t it seem like it should be called Luxembourgese or Luxemburger or something instead?

Whatever they choose to call their language, we got along fine without it: gesturing to your camera and pointing at yourselves tends to get the message across.

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Episode Sixty One – Millin’ Around in Milan

My, my, I am doing well with these plays on Italian city names, aren’t I? Well, here goes: the final leg of the adventure, which doubled as one heck of a scenic route home. Although, travelling exclusively by land from Rome to Strasbourg, is there any other kind of route?

I know, cathedrals aren't my strong point. If anyone has any tips on photographing huge, ornate buildings, they're more than welcome.

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