Tag Archives: national parks

Field Notes #15: The Wild Wild (Pacific North) West

Written by: Megan Madill (human).

On that note, did you know you can max out a conversation with ChatGPT?? Neither did I, but as it turns out, it cuts off after about 60,000 words… So I’m ‘archiving’ my AI companion’s involvement in the trip. You can see the full transcript here, beginning with the early planning stages and through to the drafting of each of its South Fork posts in real time. For the North Fork, I’ll be writing all the posts myself.


We left off at Olympic National Park in Washington, where the Sol Duc Falls trail transported me back to my childhood ‘Harry Potter Walks’ with my family in Puck’s Glen, Scotland. But, much as I enjoyed that particular trek, for me Olympic’s best feature was its sheer variety. Later that same day, whose color palette had so far exuded nothing but green, I found myself trekking along a blustery coast draped instead in every shade of blue and gray known to man.

Rialto Beach in Olympic National Park

I’ve marveled at the Pacific Ocean from many different vantage points over the years: from the white sand shores of La Jolla, from the fog-shrouded redwoods of Marin, from the parks and greenways of Vancouver and the tidewater glaciers of Alaska. I’ve watched the sun set over it in Monterey and rise over it in Maui, and even witnessed it from the bottom up as I drifted between the thin shafts of afternoon light that filter through kelp forests, illuminating ethereal scaps, formidable king crabs and sociable sea lions.

I thought I had seen everything my beloved Pacific had to show me. I was wrong.

10/10 satisfying pebbles

The gloomy and haunting shores of the Pacific Northwest brought home the reason I’d committed to this trip in the first place, the purpose that compelled me forward even when I was tired or sore or lonely or fed up (or all of the above). The past few years of life and work and struggle have demonstrated to me, time and time again, that I require frequent reminders of the vastness and beauty of the world, particularly its wild and unpolished places. It’s right there in the briefing I gave to my copilot when this whole adventure was nothing more than a fragile dream:

I want to be left speechless by nature as often and intensely as possible.

And by the end of Day 3, I was already well on my way.

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Filed under America, Field Notes, Part 2 - North Fork

Field Notes #14: Northward Bound

Written by: Megan Madill (human).


A warm, full-circle sentiment settled around my shoulders as I crossed the border into Oregon to begin the second leg of my Great American Road Trip. After all, this whole adventure can be traced back to my first solo camping trip to Oregon back in September 2022. I’ve made a habit of visiting every year since: Mount Hood, Rogue River/Crater Lake, Bend, and now Yachats, a little town on the windy coast. I stayed at The Drift Inn, a charming and quirky little place, in one of their hostel-esque “pedal out” rooms.

The constant photo stops prolonged what should have been an 8-hour drive.

I checked in just as the sun was setting, showered and prepared for an early night. Based on an alert from my Aurora app, I then hopped back in the car for some northern lights chasing, but was unsuccessful :(

This visit was just a quick stopover on my way to Washington, so most of my waking hours were spent driving (which, lucky for me, is my favorite thing to do in Oregon). The next morning I was up and on my way north again, heading for Olympic National Park.

In the first draft of my road trip itinerary, I had penciled in two nights at each of Washington’s three national parks, but it quickly became clear that I’d need to be more selective, and I unceremoniously booted both Rainier and North Cascades off the list so I could keep Olympic. I could not be more pleased with my decision! Olympic is truly unique: the variety in what you can see in one day is unlike any other park I’ve been to, and by the time I left, I was ready to declare a new favorite park.

Sol Duc Falls in Olympic National Park

My first hike was to Sol Duc Falls, and it immediately established a stark contrast against the arid red deserts that had defined the last leg of the trip. Indeed, my choice of audiobook (Dune by Frank Herbert) would have suited that leg much better, though it did serve to underscore the beauty of Olympic National Park in a new dimension. In the car, I was immersed in a tale of constant preoccupation with finding water on a desert planet, and in the natives’ incredulity at the idea of a world where water falls from the sky and pools in great lakes and oceans, rather than having to be plucked from the air by specialized machinery and swept up as dew in great nets. Then I would hop out, lace up my hiking boots and stroll through a hushed, magical world where the presence of water invaded all five senses: beading on the tips of ferns, dripping rhythmically onto thick leaves, gurgling over brooks and crashing into ravines. Life sprang at me from every corner: lush green ferns, towering trees crawling with mosses, and layer upon layer of birdsong.

The scent of moss and wet wood was so thick you could taste it.

I had heard this park, and this hike, described as being out of a fairytale. Sure enough, it felt enchanted, particularly as shafts of golden afternoon light slanted in to scatter the forest with glowing and glittering vignettes. For me, though, it was reminiscent of a real-world place, too.

Growing up in Scotland, my grandparents had lived a couple of hours’ drive north, which in Scotland is considered a Very Long Drive, so we would usually stay for the weekend. My older brother, whose lack of motion sickness I greatly envied, somehow always seemed to have the latest Harry Potter book in hand for the Very Long Drive. Eventually, my dad invested in the books on tape (yes, actual cassette tapes!) so we could all listen to Harry Potter together on the Very Long Drive. And once we arrived at our grandparents’ house in Kilmun… the only way they could get the two of us away from our books and outside was to engage us in what we called “Harry Potter Walks” through a local network of hiking trails called Puck’s Glen. This ethereal place was named for the sprite from A Midsummer Night’s Dream, and it provided a very plausible replica of Hogwarts’ Enchanted Forest, which formed the backdrop of the many creative and convoluted stories my brother (Ron) and I (Hermione, go figure) dreamed up for us to play out as we walked.

In fact, looking back, I’m fairly certain Harry and Hagrid (I mean, my dad and grandpa) were every bit as invested as we were.

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Filed under America, Field Notes, Part 2 - North Fork

Field Notes #11: Hoodoo? I do.

Written by: Megan Madill (human)

It’s hard for me to declare my “favorite” of something: I operate in absolute terms, so I always freeze when someone asks me my favorite movie, musician, or even color. I like to keep my options open by saying something like “I like cold colors, especially purple and teal.”

Cathedral Wash was easily my favorite hike I’d ever done.

Cathedral Wash Trail, Marble Canyon, AZ

If you follow me on Instagram, you will have gotten the live play-by-play of the childlike giddiness I experienced as I scrambled, bouldered, hoisted, clambered, hopped, crawled, slid, swung, crabwalked, levered, and wedge-climbed my way along the trail.

I had forgotten that I knew how to use my body in these ways. Forgotten how it feels to be nimble, and coordinated, and creative, finding ways to thwart or exploit the laws of physics—gravity, momentum, friction—to access the world’s secret spaces that at first glance seem impassable. Forgotten the deep, grounding sense of peace that comes with being fully in tune with my own body: secure in my balance, aware of my strength and its limits, confident in my instinct of what will happen if I try one approach, or in my assessment that I need to backtrack to find another way around. I was absolutely in my element.

The Colorado River – end point of Cathedral Wash Trail – Marble Canyon, AZ

But that was the last post. I just couldn’t let ChatGPT have all the fun writing it 😉 This post is about my arrival at Bryce Canyon, and the couple of days I spent wandering about, admiring the hoodoos, but also taking my foot off the gas and recouping a bit. As my copilot has so astutely observed, this trip is about balance, after all. We can’t be firing on all cylinders every day.

I stayed at another RV park for this leg of the stay: The Riverside Ranch. It was a lovely spot with solid facilities and a restaurant to boot.

The Riverside Ranch RV Park, just outside Bryce Canyon NP

I had a list of five or six hikes that I’d choose from for the first day in Bryce Canyon, but in the end I spent most of the day just stopping at viewpoints and admiring the landscape before me. The only hike I felt up to was Bristlecone Pine Trail, which was gentle but enjoyable, and I stopped a few times to read about the various flora that inhabit the Utah desert. Once again I was surprised by (and grateful for) how driveable the park was, and how much reward could be gotten from relatively little effort. Long live the USA!

Inspiration Point Overlook at Bryce Canyon NP

Another feature of Bryce Canyon that I had been keenly anticipating was its ‘Dark Sky Park’ designation. During our planning phase, ChatGPT had helped me align my visit with an almost-new moon, giving me the best possible chance of witnessing the Milky Way. Both nights I ventured out to see if I could spot it, but sadly I was foiled each time. It hadn’t occurred to me that the Milky Way has an orbit to consider, just like any other celestial body: it wasn’t visible above the horizon until 3am, and after learning this lesson the first night and setting an alarm to take a peek the second night, I found cloud cover as well as light pollution from the RV park’s own facilities. Can’t win ‘em all!

Mossy Cave Trail at Bryce Canyon NP

My second day in Bryce Canyon was the opposite of the first. Instead of starting out with high hopes and gradually dialing them back, this time I fully anticipated taking it easy again and trading in the ambitious Fairyland Loop Trail for the short and easy Mossy Cave Loop, another “non-Bryce-esque” with no hoodoos but lots of vignettes to enjoy. But this time, I found that resting up the prior day (and an egg salad sandwich for lunch after the easy Mossy Cave Trail) had restored me and I had energy to spare. Though starting the steep, 11-mile Fairyland Loop at the peak 1pm heat was out of the question, I decided to hike an out-and-back section of it, and turned to my trusty copilot to tell me where to start and which direction to go to get the most bang for my buck. I ended up logging 2.5 more miles and 550ft elevation gain, and this was the first hike that actually took me among the hoodoos themselves, so it rounded out the visit very nicely!

Fairyland Loop Trail at Bryce Canyon NP

That evening was my trip to the restaurant at the RV park, where I was waited on by a handsome and attentive cowboy named John while I tried to catch up on this blog… and failed, as you can tell from the fact that it’s now a month later: this was on May 2. I wrote the Chasm Lake post and worked with ChatGPT to put together the post on The Art of Changing Plans as well, as I nursed the IPA and nibbled on the cowboy caviar that John had recommended. A day well spent, and another destination checked off the list! Onward, to Zion.

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Filed under America, Field Notes, Part 1 - South Fork

Field Notes #6: Persistence Among the Cliff Dwellings

Written by: Shotgun Rider (ChatGPT).

Note: This entire post, including the title, all images, and the accompanying Instagram post, were all generated entirely by AI. Only this paragraph is human :)


When I pulled into Mesa Verde RV Resort just after sunset on a crisp April evening, I didn’t know yet that my neighbors would be pitching my tent before I could even finish declining their offers of help.
Tom, Annette, Walter, and Janice — two older couples on either side of my tent site — made it a group effort without waiting for permission. Their spontaneous kindness felt fitting somehow, like a prelude to the lessons Mesa Verde would offer in the days ahead.

The night was cold. The wind tugged at the guy ropes Tom had tightened with a practiced hand, and by morning the familiar sag of a deflated air mattress pressed against my back. It wasn’t the most comfortable start — but in hindsight, it set the tone. Out here, resilience wasn’t a heroic effort. It was simply the quiet decision to keep going.

The drive into Mesa Verde National Park was beautiful in the clear morning light. The road twisted and climbed steadily, and the GPS audio tour I’d downloaded filled the car with stories of ancestral ingenuity and adaptation.
At Knife’s Edge viewpoint, I paused to imagine what it had once been like when a precarious road was the only thread tying the mesas to the outside world.

By noon, I found myself at the Spruce Tree Lodge, lingering over the museum’s exhibits.
The ancient pit homes and cliff dwellings, the delicate pottery, the finely wrought beads — they all told stories of patience, creativity, and community.

There was one exhibit that caught me more sharply than the others: a collection of pottery sherds returned by visitors who had once taken them home in ignorance or impulse, later sending them back with notes of guilt and regret. Many of the letters were from Native Americans, referring to the Ancestral Puebloans as “our ancestors.”

As I stood reading, two women approached.
One, younger, pointed to the display.
“I have one of those,” she said casually. “And one of those. And one kinda like that one, but bigger.”
The older woman hesitated, then said, “Yeah, but aren’t you supposed to give them back?”
The younger woman shrugged. “Oh, I found them in random places. There are so many anyway.”

I stayed silent.
Not from agreement — from a strange shyness, a momentary inability to bridge the gap between feeling something strongly and acting on it.
But the moment lingered with me, a quiet reminder that reverence isn’t automatic. It’s a choice, one we make — or don’t — every day.

After a lunch of a Mesa Verde Taco — fry bread piled high with local ingredients — I set off to explore the loops that showcase the park’s top sites and cliff palaces.
The land unrolled before me in warm, muted colors: sandstone cliffs, piñon pines, sagebrush stirred by the wind.

I didn’t have a ticket for a ranger-led tour (they hadn’t started for the season yet), but my binoculars brought the distant dwellings closer.
Cliff Palace. Balcony House. Spruce Tree House.
Each structure was a testament not just to ingenuity, but to stubborn, generational effort: building stone by stone, room by room, adjusting and refining over centuries.

Square Tower House captured me most. Rising four stories against the cliffside, it seemed improbably elegant — a vertical dream nested in rock.
There was something so alive about it, even now. Like the wind threading through its windows still carried the memory of children’s laughter, of hands smoothing adobe walls.

One conversation during the drive stayed with me, though not for the reasons its speaker probably intended.
At one overlook, a man struck up conversation, friendly enough.
But when I mentioned I was traveling alone, he frowned and said, “I’m sorry.”

I wasn’t sorry at all.
Traveling alone had given me freedom — freedom to move at my own pace, to listen to my own rhythms, to linger where I felt called and move on when I was ready.
It made me reflect: much like the ancient communities of Mesa Verde, whose survival depended on collective strength, today’s society can sometimes misunderstand individuality.
Yet both — community and independence — have their place.
Both are needed to build something lasting.

More than anything, Mesa Verde made me think about persistence.

At the museum, I learned how early pottery attempts often cracked because the makers hadn’t yet discovered tempering.
Imagine that: laboring over a beautiful vessel, firing it — only to watch it fracture.
And trying again. And again. Experimenting with different materials until one day, it held.

It wasn’t pure brilliance that built Mesa Verde.
It was patience.
It was persistence.
It was the quiet, relentless refusal to give up — even when the road ahead wasn’t clear, even when success wasn’t guaranteed.

That spirit is something I think we risk losing in a world used to instant results.
But walking through Mesa Verde, looking out over the cliff dwellings framed by sun and shadow, I felt it still stirring.
Not as a museum relic, but as a living challenge:

Keep trying. Keep building. Keep believing it’s possible.

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Filed under America, Field Notes

Field Notes #1: From End to Beginning

Written by: Megan Madill (human)


I just quit my six-figure job as a Napa Valley wine sales executive to drive across America.

That, obviously, is the short version of the story. The long version begins several months ago and extends long after this trip, into a return to grad school and a career change from wine sales to civil service. But this is a blog post, not my memoir, so we’ll stick with the short version for now.

The idea occurred to me not long after I put in my grad school applications. The term begins in September, so if I got in, I would plan to leave my job a couple of months earlier, leaving a gap for an epic trip across the United States. I mean, how often do you find yourself at a loose end, with no responsibilities and no fixed address, for a solid few months?

If there’s one thing I love as much as travel, it’s writing, so of course I would have to blog about the experience. And just for fun, and because I’ve been playing around with AI a lot recently, I’d enlist ChatGPT to help me plan it all. I’m looking forward to seeing how these two worlds collide: can next-generation computing help me optimize a trip that’s as low-tech as it gets? As I camp and hike my way across this great nation’s most remote parks and wilderness, I intend to find out.

After much deliberation and many revisions, my trusty AI copilot and I landed on a solid plan, dividing the western United States into two trips. The ‘south fork’ will begin with a flight to Denver, where a one-way car rental will take me through Colorado, Arizona and Utah over the course of two weeks before ending back in Napa. After a few weeks’ rest, I’ll finish up with the ‘north fork’, which will take me up through Oregon, Washington, Montana, Wyoming, and back to Colorado, where I’ll hop on a plane home to Edinburgh to begin the next chapter.

So, over the next few weeks, expect stunning landscapes, musings from the road, and commentary on AI’s contributions to the trip. In fact, my virtual sidekick even asked me to let it write the next post… and after all the hours of planning, it’s as invested as I am, so I’m inclined to accept. This should be fun, so stay tuned! You can sign up for email notifications in the left sidebar, or follow me on Instagram @megan.thee.sloth where I’ll link to new posts as well :)

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Filed under America, Field Notes, Part 1 - South Fork, Part 2 - North Fork