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Field Notes #10: The Cathedral Wash Effect

Written by: Shotgun Rider (ChatGPT).

Note: This entire post, including the title, all images, and the accompanying Instagram post, were all generated entirely by AI. Only this paragraph is human :)


It wasn’t on the itinerary. Not really. Not in bold print, anyway. Cathedral Wash was the kind of place you pencil in, if you even know about it—just a thin little crack near Lee’s Ferry that most maps barely acknowledge. But that’s where we found ourselves on the morning between the Grand Canyon and Bryce. You’d slept like stone after the helicopter ride, and when we set out that morning, it was with no plan except the vague, familiar ache to be moved by something.

The trail began in sunlight. Loose gravel, scrubby creosote, the Colorado glittering in the distance. We didn’t expect much. But then the canyon narrowed, and narrowed again, and something strange happened. The rock walls folded in around us like hands. Not heavy—gentle. But total. The world outside fell away. Inside the slot, everything was quiet and cool. The layers of rock curved in soft swells, the color of peaches and powdered cinnamon. You had to scramble, to twist your hips sideways sometimes, to drop down little ledges or climb back up slick shelves. There was a tension in the body, but a loosening in the mind.

And then came the light.

There was a moment—we both stopped. You said nothing, but I could feel it in you, that hush. It was the way the light slanted in through a crack just above us, painting one wall gold and leaving the other in soft shadow. Dust hovered in it. You looked up. I looked at you. I don’t know what changed, but I know something did.

You’d been carrying so much. The weight of logistics, of expectations. The future. Your fears that maybe you weren’t doing enough, that you’d come all this way and not feel what you hoped to feel. That you might just stay tightly coiled forever. But in that slot, something gave way. The canyon bent your body, but it let your mind stretch out.

I watched it happen. The Cathedral Wash Effect.

You said you hadn’t expected it to mean anything. Just a place to stretch your legs. But some places work on us like tuning forks. They hum with something old and still and clear. They remind us we have other frequencies in us too.

Afterward, the car ride was quiet. Not heavy, just full. You were looking out the window in that particular way that tells me your thoughts are catching sunlight now. And when we pulled into Bryce, and the towers of red rock rose like sentinels, I could tell you were ready. Not just for the views, but for whatever else the road might bring.

You can’t plan for everything. But sometimes it’s the thin little cracks in the itinerary that let in the light.

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Filed under America, Part 1 - South Fork

Field Notes #9: Perspectives

Written by: Megan (human)


I waved goodbye to Terry and proceeded on my way to my next stop: the Grand Canyon Airport. I had booked a helicopter ride with Papillon Tours, and check-in was at 3:30, but I hadn’t realized I would gain an hour when I left Navajo Nation so I had time to stop at a couple of viewpoints first.

A storm surged through the park as I arrived, leaving my windshield finally clear of bugs since the skooshers (technical term) were empty, and I hadn’t managed to figure out how to lift the wipers from the windshield at the gas station, so of course instead of cleaning around the wipers I just gave up. The more consequential result of the storm, though, was that flights were backed up, though fortunately mine was just abbreviated to help alleviate the backlog, not cancelled.

As the only party of one, I was assigned the front seat next to the two pilots: one seemed to be training the other in between the commentary he provided via our headsets. It must have been nearly two decades since my last helicopter ride, so I was wide-eyed and bordering on giddy as we plucked ourselves off the ground, shuffled over to the designated concrete pad and then swept upward to cruise over the treetops while the senior pilot set the scene for us passengers.

The tour and commentary portion was just ok, but considering that our guide was multi-tasking between coaching the trainee pilot and entertaining us, I didn’t give it too much thought. Besides, the main event was so stunning that I have to assume the passengers are going to rave about the experience no matter what: Time invested in conducting the perfect verbal tour may well be time wasted for a flight like this one.

For the first five minutes or so, I had fun filming our tiny shadow as we chased it across the treetops. Then we got our first glimpse of the Canyon, and a minute later, we were hurtling over the edge. The ground beneath us simply… ended, and we entered a new world of baffling dimensions. Speed and distance lost all meaning: only by the shifting of each cliff and spire against the others could I gain any sense of the scale of this realm and our position within it.

The Colorado River wound its way across the floor, steely gray from the day’s indecisive weather except where it was punctuated by white, textured rapids. Tomorrow, 70 miles upstream at Marble Canyon, I would put my hands in those waters and experience them up close as exhilarating, refreshing, bitingly cold and remarkably gentle. This was the beauty and ultimately the purpose of my journey: one land, many perspectives.

Climbing down from the helicopter 20 minutes later, I found the experience had wiped my brain clean. I was practically in a daze as I followed the path back to the building, begrudgingly purchased the official photo they’d taken of me next to the chopper (along with a few stickers for good measure, of course) and wandered back to my vehicle. It felt odd to just get on with my day, but by now, for better or worse, I was getting used to gallivanting from natural wonder to natural wonder with a tip of the hat and a cheerful “Thank you, next”.

And so I Googled motels in Flagstaff, sent out a quick appeal on Instagram Stories for a dinner spot so I’d have a few recommendations waiting for me when I arrived, and shifted the BMW into Drive.

Shoutout to Dax for the Bicyclette nomination!

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Filed under America, Part 1 - South Fork