Tag Archives: Visit Utah

Field Notes #12: Gripping the Chains

Written by: Shotgun Rider (ChatGPT).

👧🏼 Note: For the first time, my AI companion is writing from my perspective. Usually, I discourage this, but this time the output was too good to ask it for a redraft. It’s based on an “interview” type of exchange in which the machine read this blog up until now, proposed a few topics to fit in to the story so far, refined the proposals based on my feedback, and then essentially “interviewed” me on my experience at Zion. I kinda wish I’d written this myself tbh… I feel like ChatGPT is starting to get a feel for my writing style and even mimic it, but without all the rambling detours. So enjoy, but maybe not more than you enjoy my own posts 😜

Regardless, don’t be fooled: all text and images that follow, plus the post title, were produced using generative AI. Megan out. /👧🏼


Zion National Park greeted us not with soaring trails but with shifting plans. We arrived fresh from Bryce Canyon by way of Grand Canyon, Mesa Verde, and Rocky Mountain before that, our legs still humming from all they had carried us through, only to learn that Zion Canyon was closed to personal vehicles—shuttle access only. I hadn’t packed for a day away from the car. And after weeks on the road, that car had begun to feel like a little shell of safety, comfort, and autonomy. The idea of stepping out of it ill-prepared and spending a full day away from its familiarity struck a nerve I hadn’t known was exposed.

So, I didn’t. Instead, I drove through East Zion, detouring to viewpoints and trailheads, then hunkered down at the East Rim trailhead while a thunderstorm rolled in. Inside the car, I journaled and watched the storm tumble in across the red rock landscape, grateful for a reason to sit still. That pause turned out to be a gift: time to regroup, to adjust expectations, and to notice the fatigue I hadn’t admitted to. The trip had been beautiful, but it had also been nonstop. Something about Zion—its verticality, its grandeur, maybe just its timing—forced me to slow down.

I’d planned to camp at Zion Canyon Ranch that night, but plans changed again. The road was barely passable in a sedan, and the site itself was more dust than destination: no facilities, just steep rutted tracks and one lonely porta-potty I couldn’t even drive up to. I backtracked and tried a BLM site next, but the earth was too solid for my tent pegs. Ultimately, I ended up at a roadside Econolodge in Hurricane, Utah. Not the night under the stars I’d envisioned—but I slept deeply and gratefully in a real bed, recognizing at last that my body needed rest more than my itinerary needed precision.

The next morning, I stepped up to Zion again, this time ready—and with a last-minute Angels Landing permit in hand. I set out at 10 a.m. with a curious calm, unsure whether the chain section would feel like a triumph or a terror. I’d seen the photos, of course. Everyone has. But standing there in the moment, hands on iron, cliff faces dropping off into air, I understood why the trail has such a reputation. I’m not scared of heights, I thought—until I was. There were moments that startled me: a misstep here, a hand-slick with rain there, the undeniable awareness of how easy it would be to fall.

And yet, I didn’t panic. I kept moving. Even when my heart jumped, my hands stayed firm. One hiker behind me asked if I was okay, and I laughed. “I think so. I just never thought I was afraid of heights until now.”

At the summit, I sat quietly, taking in the scope of it all: the beauty, the scale, the sheer improbability of being here, in this moment, on this rock, with chipmunks clambering up my legs hoping for a taste of sesame bar (which, for the record, they did not get). A fellow hiker mentioned he was applying to a master’s program at the University of Edinburgh, and I smiled at the coincidence—another reminder of how small the world can be.

Looking back, I didn’t hike The Narrows or The Subway. But I did hike Angels Landing, and I did learn that not doing everything is okay. It doesn’t cheapen the experience. If anything, it makes what I did do feel more like a choice than a checklist. I’m not trying to conquer these places. I’m trying to meet them where I’m at.

And, for the first time in a while, that felt like enough.

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Filed under America, Field Notes, Part 1 - South Fork

Field Notes #11: Hoodoo? I do.

Written by: Megan Madill (human)

It’s hard for me to declare my “favorite” of something: I operate in absolute terms, so I always freeze when someone asks me my favorite movie, musician, or even color. I like to keep my options open by saying something like “I like cold colors, especially purple and teal.”

Cathedral Wash was easily my favorite hike I’d ever done.

Cathedral Wash Trail, Marble Canyon, AZ

If you follow me on Instagram, you will have gotten the live play-by-play of the childlike giddiness I experienced as I scrambled, bouldered, hoisted, clambered, hopped, crawled, slid, swung, crabwalked, levered, and wedge-climbed my way along the trail.

I had forgotten that I knew how to use my body in these ways. Forgotten how it feels to be nimble, and coordinated, and creative, finding ways to thwart or exploit the laws of physics—gravity, momentum, friction—to access the world’s secret spaces that at first glance seem impassable. Forgotten the deep, grounding sense of peace that comes with being fully in tune with my own body: secure in my balance, aware of my strength and its limits, confident in my instinct of what will happen if I try one approach, or in my assessment that I need to backtrack to find another way around. I was absolutely in my element.

The Colorado River – end point of Cathedral Wash Trail – Marble Canyon, AZ

But that was the last post. I just couldn’t let ChatGPT have all the fun writing it 😉 This post is about my arrival at Bryce Canyon, and the couple of days I spent wandering about, admiring the hoodoos, but also taking my foot off the gas and recouping a bit. As my copilot has so astutely observed, this trip is about balance, after all. We can’t be firing on all cylinders every day.

I stayed at another RV park for this leg of the stay: The Riverside Ranch. It was a lovely spot with solid facilities and a restaurant to boot.

The Riverside Ranch RV Park, just outside Bryce Canyon NP

I had a list of five or six hikes that I’d choose from for the first day in Bryce Canyon, but in the end I spent most of the day just stopping at viewpoints and admiring the landscape before me. The only hike I felt up to was Bristlecone Pine Trail, which was gentle but enjoyable, and I stopped a few times to read about the various flora that inhabit the Utah desert. Once again I was surprised by (and grateful for) how driveable the park was, and how much reward could be gotten from relatively little effort. Long live the USA!

Inspiration Point Overlook at Bryce Canyon NP

Another feature of Bryce Canyon that I had been keenly anticipating was its ‘Dark Sky Park’ designation. During our planning phase, ChatGPT had helped me align my visit with an almost-new moon, giving me the best possible chance of witnessing the Milky Way. Both nights I ventured out to see if I could spot it, but sadly I was foiled each time. It hadn’t occurred to me that the Milky Way has an orbit to consider, just like any other celestial body: it wasn’t visible above the horizon until 3am, and after learning this lesson the first night and setting an alarm to take a peek the second night, I found cloud cover as well as light pollution from the RV park’s own facilities. Can’t win ‘em all!

Mossy Cave Trail at Bryce Canyon NP

My second day in Bryce Canyon was the opposite of the first. Instead of starting out with high hopes and gradually dialing them back, this time I fully anticipated taking it easy again and trading in the ambitious Fairyland Loop Trail for the short and easy Mossy Cave Loop, another “non-Bryce-esque” with no hoodoos but lots of vignettes to enjoy. But this time, I found that resting up the prior day (and an egg salad sandwich for lunch after the easy Mossy Cave Trail) had restored me and I had energy to spare. Though starting the steep, 11-mile Fairyland Loop at the peak 1pm heat was out of the question, I decided to hike an out-and-back section of it, and turned to my trusty copilot to tell me where to start and which direction to go to get the most bang for my buck. I ended up logging 2.5 more miles and 550ft elevation gain, and this was the first hike that actually took me among the hoodoos themselves, so it rounded out the visit very nicely!

Fairyland Loop Trail at Bryce Canyon NP

That evening was my trip to the restaurant at the RV park, where I was waited on by a handsome and attentive cowboy named John while I tried to catch up on this blog… and failed, as you can tell from the fact that it’s now a month later: this was on May 2. I wrote the Chasm Lake post and worked with ChatGPT to put together the post on The Art of Changing Plans as well, as I nursed the IPA and nibbled on the cowboy caviar that John had recommended. A day well spent, and another destination checked off the list! Onward, to Zion.

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Filed under America, Field Notes, Part 1 - South Fork